Dogs learn from experience.  Dogs that arrive at your door, already housebroken or very easy to housebreak, grew up in  or had consistent access to an outdoor environment.  This is how they were raised.

 When purchasing a puppy, find out how it has been raised.  What has it been taught in the way of soiling indoors verses outdoors?

Dogs learn from experience.  The dog that continues to soil in the house, is given the opportunity to soil in the house.

  For starters, think in terms of only giving your dog the opportunity to soil outside.

Normally, dogs never eat their own stool. 
Once again, dogs learn from experience.

 Nature has prepared a mother dog to instinctively keep her whelping area clean by consuming her puppy’s excrement, as they soil.  This is a temporary solution for a mother dog, and it is perfectly natural.  Mother dog only does this while she and her litter are confined to the small birthing area.

At about 3 to 4 weeks of age, puppies start getting their razor-sharp puppy teeth in, which encourages the mother dog to begin weaning her litter from her teats.   She starts leaving the whelping area. 

Raised properly, it is critical for the caretaker to greatly expand the puppy’s environment so that they can escape their own bowl movements.  This is what they do naturally if given the opportunity.  

Unfortunately, irresponsible breeders oftentimes remove the mother without changing the environment.  This encourages puppies to eat their own stool as a means of keeping their environment clean, just like mom did.  

Good news!  It may be difficult; however, a new puppy that arrives with coprophagic behavior can relearn.  Get started right away!

It is normal for a young puppy to pick up nearly everything it has access to.  Putting things in their mouths is one of the best ways for them to learn about this new world they were recently born into. 

Just for fun, look at an object close to you for a moment.  Pick any object and then close your eyes.  Ask yourself … “Do I know what that object would feel like if I put it in my mouth?”  Then ask yourself, “Do I know or can I at least imagine what it would taste like if I did put it in my mouth?”  Thank You!  Now open your eyes and read the next line. 

The reason you knew both what it would feel like in your mouth and you could also imagine what it would taste like is because you  put everything in your mouth when you were a baby.

It’s one crucial way in which we all learn about the world. 

Recommendation:  Don’t sweat the small stuff.  You don’t want to be that helicopter parent, following your puppy everywhere and pulling everything out of their mouth.  This will lead to additional problems.  

Obviously, if your puppy picks up something that is dangerous or valuable to you, you do need to retrieve it.  Pick and choose your battles wisely.  Offering a trade, like a scrumptious  treat in exchange, may encourage your puppy to release the item gladly. 

Caution: Whatever we notice the most expands! 

We cannot stop a puppy from teething.  Teething subsides as our puppies age.  We can  redirect our puppy to chew on something appropriate.

In addition, we can support our puppies’ need to teeth by giving them the opportunity to play with other puppies similar in age.  This is how they would expend much of this energy naturally.  Other puppies, similar in age and size, will benefit as well.

We can also discourage chewing on the wrong items with my favorite product, “Grannicks Bitter Apple”.

While the crate is a wonderful tool, and a desirable place to retreat to for many dogs, it can also be the wrong tool and a nightmare for others.  We want to remember that all dogs are not the same.

It’s extremely important to introduce the crate in a positive manner.  We want our dog to look forward to going into their crate.  For example, meals may be delivered in the crate and once they are finished eating we let them back out.  Many articles have been written about how to introduce the crate to your dog.

I want to reiterate that there are dogs, where even if we do everything right … they are never going to acclimate to being caged.  Which dog do you have?

Recommendation:  To find out which dog you have, please view Ted X talk by Karyn Garvin “Save a Dog’s Life” and share this talk wherever you can.  This topic is horribly misunderstood.

The Right Daycare for the Right Dog is a blessing.

 I’m using the word “Right” because not all dog daycares are properly managed. 
I’m using the word “Right” referring to the dog because this is not a great environment for all dogs. 

However, when it’s Right for both, it can be a blessing.  You want to do your due diligence by comparing the daycares in your area to find a quality, well run business.  Then the daycare facility will evaluate your dog to determine if it’s a good fit for your dog.

There is a greater risk factor associated with dog parks than dog daycares. 

This is a personal choice as you need to assume the risk.  Numerous people love going to their dog park. 

Recommendation:  Always carry “Spray Shield” by Petsafe

The word “No” is essential for a dog’s safety.  For my own dogs, “No” means to stop whatever you are doing.  It gives them direction. 

The overuse of the word “No” however, does create a problem.   This is a common trap for new puppy owners whose puppies know no boundaries in their early weeks of living.  Anyone who feels like they are saying “No” all the time … is going down the wrong path.  It’s time for more solutions. 

We MUST remember that telling any dog what not to do is only half of the lesson.   We need to follow through by showing them what we would like them to do instead.

A good rule may be that every correction is followed by redirection and praise of some sort. 

It’s always best to focus on showing your dog what you want them to do! 

My first question is how old is your dog and has your dog ever injured another dog?

If you have an adult dog, 2 years or older, and it has injured another dog then there are all sorts of precautions and training that need to take place to prepare you for dealing with this behavior.  For truly aggressive behavior you want to work with a professional trainer.

On the other hand, if you have a young dog, that is normally great with other dogs this is a different story.  Younger dogs, that are great with other dogs at dog daycare or great at the dog park should not be labeled reactive.  The correct label for their behavior is more oftentimes  “A Phony Tough”.

It is not uncommon for this posturing behavior to begin as a dog matures.

When we watch two puppies play, most of the time their play behavior consists of play fighting.  Rehearsing play fighting is FUN!.   Similarly, behaving tough and lunging on leash can also be a ton of fun for this maturing young dog.

Phony tough behavior is particularly fun when the handler has their dog wearing a harness.  There is no way to correct the dog, and the harness makes lunging very comfortable.  The harness contributes to supporting this behavior.

Regardless, this posturing behavior is inappropriate, and it should not be tolerated.  Over time it will only worsen.  With a simple change in training equipment and a few corrections you can take the fun out of it.

This is learned behavior.  All dogs learn from experience.  When a dog’s only experience with the front door is to excitedly exit, and go for a walk, that’s what they want to do.  With or without you!  It has been taught to go out the front door and leave!

A more balanced experience is what’s required.  For example, going out the front door is just  a trip to the mailbox, and then we come back inside.    

 It will take repetition but here is the message, “We are not leaving!”  Get creative. Stay within your property’s perimeter.  Perimeter train your dog.

When it is time for a walk … lets go out the front door, or a different door and get in the car.  Drive off the property instead and then go for your walk. 

Finally, with training, a dog can easily be taught how to “Wait” at the front door which is another part of the solution. 

The most important ingredient that is seldom discussed is a dog’s need for variety in their diet. 

 Let’s suppose I ask you what your favorite meal is.  You say you love spaghetti and meatballs.  I say great!  From here on out, and for the rest of your life you will get spaghetti and meatballs every day, for breakfast, lunch and dinner.  EVERY DAY!  The exact same meal. 

 Most people would cringe at this idea because we crave variety in our diets.  In fact, craving variety is nature’s way of helping us to avoid malnutrition.  We ALL crave variety. 

Dogs too!  Dogs are descendants of the wolf.  Wolves in the wild are scavengers as they have access to all sorts of variety in their diets. 

 You are the best one to decide how and what types of variety make the most sense for your dog. 

In your dog’s defense, let’s first remember that jumping up is a natural behavior for a dog. 

The universe did not make any mistakes when it created the dog.  All “Jumping for Joy” cannot be bad. 

 It is more realistic to think of my dog’s jumping behavior as something I want to minimize and manage.  We want to focus on teaching your dog what else to do.  How to come and sit for example.  Sitting is a great way to redirect jumping. 

 Once again, whatever we notice the most expands.  If I focus on jumping, I will see more jumping.  Likewise, when I focus on noticing my dog sitting, I will see more sitting.

Recommendation: Notice sitting!  Pay big for it as a start.

We can teach a dog to be quiet when asked to do so …
We can manage our dogs barking …
But it’s ludicrous to think we could ever STOP a dog from barking. 

 Once again, whatever we notice the most expands.  Start with noticing your dog being quiet and paying big for “Quiet”.  Teaching them what else to do may be the magic bullet.

The dog that is never left alone is more likely to experience anxiety about being separated.
Regular alone times help to make being left alone normal.

Recommendation:  Watch TED X by Karyn Garvin to determine whether your dog’s behavior is indeed Separation Anxiety.  The Title of this talk is “Save a Dog’s Life”

There are dogs which are naturally well-behaved.  It’s not uncommon for me to meet a new client, (a dog owner) who tells me that up until now, they have never needed professional assistance in training any of their dogs.  All their dogs in the past were naturally well behaved.  This was no accident.

 As a young adult, my very first dog  was this way.  It was as if her whole way of being was focused on “How may I please you”?  When I reflect on those times, I believe that my joy in teaching her new things and taking her everywhere with me helped to shape her into the incredible companion she became.

 Obedience Training & Taking Your Dog as Many Places with You as Possible, naturally prepares them to be adaptable, and to feel at home away from home. 

Start now!  The more you go out in public together, the quicker the two of you will learn how to meet those demands. It’s also a great way to learn how and where you may need a little extra professional help.

My first question is how afraid is your dog?  On a scale of 1 to 10 … 1 being the least fearful, and 10 being the most fearful.  The level of your dog’s fearfulness would determine where you need to start helping your dog relearn.    

Understand that for the vast majority of dogs, a fear of car rides was learned.  The good news is that with patience, persistence, sensitivity and determination you can help your dog relearn that the car and car rides are a great thing. 

Some dogs begin shaking and may vomit within minutes of being in the car.  This ranks up there with level 10.  For this dog, spending hours in the car without it moving will be the starting point.  

We can do this by pulling the car out of the garage and parking it.  Now put your dog inside and let’s think of it like a big crate to begin with.  Weather permitting, and windows down  just enough to provide fresh air, we are creating a new association with the car. 

You might be sitting close by in a chair reading.  Perhaps you have a project to work on in the garage or some landscaping to attend to nearby.  Maybe you have another dog who loves sitting in the car with them to keep them company. 

We are looking for signs of them being more comfortable.  Now they are lifting their heads up, looking out the window.   Hanging out in the car is a new normal.  It’s no longer scary.

For some kind of guideline … I have had dogs spend 40 or 50 hours or more, just doing this.  It’s God’s timetable.  I want them to enjoy getting in and looking out.  Another test would be whether they can take a treat.  

When you have made progress in this area the next step would likely be short rides.  Very short  rides with a positive outcome.  For example, take a short ride, park the car and go for a walk. A short ride to a fast-food restaurant for a cheeseburger for your dog can also be very impressionable.  

Motion sickness is another category all its own.  True motion sickness is not learned.  I would experience motion sickness riding up a mountain with someone else driving.  So do a lot of dogs.  We need the driver to stop and let us out rather frequently before we get sick.  Dramamine might be helpful as well.  It just depends on how sensitive we are to motion sickness.